You're on Calton Hill in Edinburgh, surrounded by the pulsing energy of the Beltane Fire Festival. It's April 30, and as night falls, you're about to dive into a celebration that is a modern version of an ancient Iron Age Celtic ritual with fiery performances.
Think lots of fire, drum beats, and folklore come together to welcome back the power of the sun, after cold, dark winter months. Get ready for a night that promises to be both wildly fun and deeply rooted in tradition - we’ve got our explainer right here!
What's the fuss about?
The Beltane Fire Festival in Edinburgh brings back a tradition that almost disappeared. The last time a Beltane fire was lit in Helmsdale was in 1820, and by the 1870s, this tradition stopped in places like Fife and the Shetland Isles. Even in Edinburgh, where fires were once common on Arthur's Seat for Beltane, they stopped lighting them by the 20th century. Now, the festival is back, held every April 30th on Calton Hill. It's a lively event that says goodbye to winter and welcomes summer, mixing old fire rituals with modern performances.
Here’s what you get to see
The Beltane Fire Festival in Edinburgh brings old Celtic traditions to life, restarted in 1988 to reconnect people and celebrate Scottish history. Today, it mixes legends, myths, and drama in a unique way. As night falls, you watch the last of winter disappear, and see the May Queen begin her procession. The excitement grows with the return of the Green Man, a symbol of new life. As the Beltane Fire lights up the night, everyone gathers to reflect and look forward to what comes next. This festival links you to past traditions and the future's possibilities.
Where the magic unfolds: Calton Hill
Your adventure takes place on Calton Hill, a historic site dotted with iconic monuments like the National Monument and Nelson's Monument. The hill offers panoramic views of the city – a perfect backdrop for the night's festivities.
Your Beltane itinerary
The Procession: The festival kicks off with a dramatic procession led by the May Queen and the Green Man, symbolizing fertility and rebirth. Follow them through a winding path of fire sculptures and performances.
Fire Performances: There are lots of fire dancers, and as you follow them, see how they use fire against the night sky.
Drumming Circles: The drumming circles are the heartbeat of the festival. Quite literally! The rhythm is contagious – you might find yourself swaying along!
Costumed Characters: Meet fascinating characters from Celtic folklore, each adding a layer to the night's mystical story.
The Climax: The culmination is a dramatic enactment of the death and rebirth of the Green Man, followed by a giant bonfire that lights up the Edinburgh sky.
Tips for the festival goer
- Timing is everything: Arrive early to get a good spot. The festival starts as darkness falls and lasts for about three hours.
- Dress for the occasion: Edinburgh can be chilly, even in spring. Wear warm clothes and comfortable shoes as you'll be on your feet most of the time.
- Pack smart: Bring a water bottle, but leave large bags at home. The hill gets crowded, and you'll want to move easily.
- Respect the ritual: While it's a festive atmosphere, remember it's also a spiritual event for many. Respect the performers and the space. Beltane Fire Society events operate within a culture of creating safer spaces built on mutual respect and consent.
- Photography: It’s tempting to capture every moment, but try to experience the festival beyond the lens too. If you do take photos, be mindful of the performers and fellow spectators. Ideally, avoid flash photography as it would disturb the performers.
- Prohibited items: Large bags/airport luggage no bigger than an A3 piece of paper: there are no cloakrooms; glass; drums; loud instruments; fire props; BBQs, fire pits or firewood; flammable liquids; dogs (except guide dogs); drones..
Edinburgh’s rich history
Edinburgh is a city with a rich history. In its Old Town, you'll find narrow, medieval streets, while the New Town is known for its grand Georgian buildings. The city tells stories of royal drama, famous writers like Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson, and big ideas from the past. When you walk around, you're following the same paths that important historical figures once did. Along with the famous spots like Edinburgh Castle, there are many hidden places with their own interesting stories, showing how the old and the new blend together in Edinburgh.
What else to do in Edinburgh
- Hop-On Hop-Off Tour: To get a comprehensive view of the city, take the 24-hour or 48-hour Hop-On Hop-Off tour. It's an excellent way to see Edinburgh at your own pace, with the flexibility to explore the places that interest you most. The tour covers key attractions, offering insights into the city's rich history and culture. More details are available here.
- Edinburgh Castle Guided Tour: No visit to Edinburgh is complete without exploring its iconic castle. Opt for a guided walking tour with fast-track entry to skip the long lines. The tour provides a deep dive into the history of this historic fortress, which has played a pivotal role in Scottish history. Book your tour here.
- Royal Mile Exploration: Take a stroll along the Royal Mile, the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town. This historic street is lined with charming shops, restaurants, and several significant landmarks, including St. Giles' Cathedral and the Scottish Parliament.
- Holyrood Palace and Arthur's Seat: Visit the King’s official residence in Scotland, Holyrood Palace, and then hike up Arthur's Seat for breathtaking views of the city.
- National Museum of Scotland: Spend a few hours exploring the National Museum of Scotland, where you'll find an extensive collection covering Scottish antiquities, culture, and history.
- Try Local Cuisine: Don't miss the chance to try traditional Scottish dishes like haggis, neeps and tatties, and Scottish salmon. Edinburgh's food scene also has a whole lot of international cuisines to check out.
- Ghost Tours: For a different perspective, join one of Edinburgh's famous ghost tours. These tours take you through the city's ancient and haunted sites, often including the eerie underground vaults. Get ready for this here.
- Princes Street Gardens: Relax and take a leisurely stroll through Princes Street Gardens, a beautiful public park in the city's center, offering great views of the castle.
- Shopping at Grassmarket:For unique souvenirs, head to Grassmarket. This area is known for its independent boutiques, vintage shops, and lively atmosphere. Check out Armchair Books (a favorite!), Greyfriars Art Shop, The Red Door Gallery, and more while you’re there!
BONUS: Hidden gems you can’t miss in Edinburgh!
- Dean Village: A picturesque hamlet on the Water of Leith, Dean Village feels like stepping back in time with its centuries-old buildings, yet it's just minutes from the city center.
- The Real Mary King’s Close: Hidden beneath the Royal Mile, this underground labyrinth of streets and homes shows you what life in 17th-century Edinburgh looked like.
- The Museum of Edinburgh: This often-overlooked museum on the Royal Mile is packed with city artifacts, including the original collar and bowl of Greyfriars Bobby, the famous loyal dog.
- Gilmerton Cove: A series of mysterious hand-carved passageways and chambers beneath the streets of a suburb, whose origins are still debated by historians!
- Surgeons' Hall Museums: These fascinating museums show the history of medicine and surgery, with intriguing, and sometimes eerie, medical artifacts.
- Leith: The port district of Leith, once a separate town, has a mix of historic sites and modern bars and restaurants along the Shore. Don’t forget to check out Ship on the Shore and get lunch at Alby’s!
- Cramond Village: This is a small village on the outskirts of Edinburgh, known for its Roman history, picturesque harbor, and lovely riverside walks.
- The Writers’ Museum: Tucked away in a close off the Royal Mile, this museum celebrates the lives of Scotland's literary heroes like Burns, Scott, and Stevenson.
- Dr. Neil’s Garden: Often called Edinburgh’s secret garden, this beautiful spot is hidden next to Duddingston Loch.
- The Scott Monument: While not exactly hidden, many miss climbing this Gothic monument for a breathtaking view of Edinburgh’s skyline. Make sure you stop here!
